pCINE version 1.0
(the first release)

Instructions updated: February 11, 2001

Designed by:
     David Eubank

Designed and Programmed by:
     Dian Suharto Iskandar

This program is designed for cinematographers and is a companion to the popular pCAM.  It calculates EXPOSURE (compensating for changes in shutter angles, camera speed, filter factors, emulsion speeds, ND filters, ASA-EI-DIN, Footcandles/Lux and exposure times),  RUNNING TIME to FILM LENGTH, SHOOTING SPEED to SCREEN TIME, TIME LAPSE, HMI (safe speeds & shutters), DIOPTER (power & focus distances), MACRO (magnification factors, depth of field & stop corrections), COLOR CORRECTION, SCENE ILLUMINATION, LIGHT COVERAGE and UNDERWATER DISTANCES. 

• IMPORTANT:  If you are upgrading pCINE from any beta version please note that the database is different from the older versions.  You can install the new version over the old, but the first time you start the new program it will warn you that you have an "incompatible record."  Tap the "YES" button and the new database will automatically replace the old.  

FEATURES:

• Exposure

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Calculates f-stop for changes in camera speed, shutter angle, film speed, filters or Footcandles.

  • Can change between Footcandles or LUX.

  • Can change between EI, ASA or DIN.

  • Can unlock to change f-stop without changing other settings.

  • Can change default camera speed, shutter angle or film speed.

  • Can save calculations in memory for recall later.

  • Pop-up list of 16 common filters plus 7 custom (user-defined) filters with their stop loss.

  • Pop-up list of ND filters.

  • Pop-up list of common Camera speeds (FPS)

  • Pop-up list of common Shutter angles.

  • Pop-up list of common Film speeds.

  • Can turn off or remove Filter and Footcandle calculations from screen.

  • Numeric pad or manual input of information.

• Running time/film length

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Calculates film length including frames of any film speed.

  • Calculates time including frames.

  • When you change fps after one calculation, you can choose whether you want this change to correct the time or the length result.

  • Pop-up list to choose between 16mm, 35mm-4 perf, 35mm-3perf, 35mm-8perf VistaVision, 65/70mm-5perf, 65/70mm-8perf, 65/70mm-10perf or 65/70mm-15perf formats.

  • Pop-up list of various common camera speeds.

  • Meters or inches in "Preferences."

  • Can easily clear (reset) the screen back to zero.

  • Numeric pad or manual input of information.
    

• Shooting time/screen time

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Calculates screen time of any shooting time at any camera speed.

  • Pop-up list of common camera speeds.

  • Can easily clear (reset) the screen back to zero.

  • Numeric pad or manual input of information.

  • Can change projector speed to any fps.
    

• Time lapse

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Calculates shooting interval for intervalometer shooting.

  • Calculates Exposure Times for intervals under 1fps.

  • Calculates shooting time for various screen times and intervals.

  • Calculates screen times for various shooting times and intervals.

  • Can change projector speed to any fps.
    

• HMI safe speeds/shutter angles

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • A complete pop-up list of all safe camera speeds (changes automatically between 50hz or 60hz when you select either in "Preferences."

  • 50hz or 60hz frequency in "Preferences."

  • Calculates safe shutter angles for various non-safe camera speeds.

  • Calculates safe camera speeds for any non-safe shutter angle.

  • Numeric pad or manual input of information.
    

• Diopter

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Shows focus limits, near and far, of any diopter power.

  • Can enter a lens' closest focus for exact near focus calculation.

  • Can save calculations in memory for recall later.

  • Calculates relationship between object distance and focus on the lens barrel.

  • Object distance can be shown from either film plane or front of diopter.

  • Can enter physical length of lens.

  • Can change default diopter power in "Preferences."

  • Meters or inches in "Preferences."

  • Numeric pad or manual input of information.
    

• Macro

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Calculates magnification.

  • Calculates stop corrections.

  • Calculates object distance.

  • Calculates extension length.

  • Calculates Depth of Field.

  • Can change Circle of Confusion.

  • Meters or inches in "Preferences."

  • Numeric pad or manual input of information.
    

• Color correction

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Can drag the graphic bar to appropriate Kelvin of light source for quick calculations.

  • Pop-up choice of 3200k or 5500K film types.

  • Pop-up list of various lighting conditions and their Kelvin temperatures.

  • Displays filter required for color correction

  • Displays Mired plus or minus.

  • Displays stop correction for filters chosen.

  • Descriptive list of common Kelvin temperatures and light sources.

  • Graphic bar shows whether required filter is yellowish or bluish.

  • Numeric pad or manual input of information.
    

• Scene illumination

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Shows beam intensity and footcandles of a particular lamp at various distances.
    

• Light Coverage

  • Graphic to help user see relationships between elements.

  • Shows the beam width and angle of a particular lamp at various distances.
    

• Underwater distances

  • Calculates underwater distances when using flat-glass ports on your underwater housing.

HOW TO SET UP pCINE:

• Install the following 3 files onto your Palm device:

  • pCINE.prc

  • PocketC.prc

  • MathLib.prc

  • [NOTE: PocketC and MathLib are files needed for pCINE to operate, but once installed you never need to open or launch them.  Launch only pCINE with its camera icon in applications.]

• Once installed tap on the pCINE camera icon in applications to launch it.  You can also launch pCINE from within pCAM (if you own it) by tapping on the "p" or the diamond above it at the top left of your screen.  You may also select it from the pCAM scroll-down menu by tapping on your menu button.

• IMPORTANT:  Previous users of any pCINE version must follow the special instructions at the top of this page.
  

• PREFERENCES:

  • Tap MENU --> Options --> Preferences.

  • Select "Exposure."

  • Set your preferred defaults of "Aperture,' "Camera Speed," "Shutter Angle," "Film rating," "Film Speed," or "Light unit."

    • There are two ways to enter data:

      • Enter manually by tapping the current entry, entering another number and tapping OK.  

      • Tap on the diamond to the left of the entry and choose from a pop-up list of the most common choices.

    • NOTE: Traditionally, USA and elsewhere defaults are 24fps camera speed, 180 or 200 shutter angle, EI film rating and footcandles.  Europe and elsewhere are 25fps, 172.8 shutter angle, DIN or ASA.  These days, however, Europe is sometimes 24fps and 172.8 shutter angle.    

    • NOTE:  In the US, ASA is traditionally used for still photography and EI for motion picture.

  • Select "Diopter" to change to the diopter power you use most often or leave as is.

  • Select "HMI safe speed/shutter" to change to your the electrical frequency.  60hz is used in the USA and elsewhere.  50hz is used in Europe and elsewhere.  Find out what yours is and select it.

  • Select the unit of measurement, either "meters" or "feet, inches."

  • Select "numeric pad input" (calculator style) ON/OFF.  (Allows you to enter information by tapping a numeric pad).

  • Select "sound" ON/OFF.

  • Tap OK to return to the program screen.

HOW TO USE pCINE:

• At the top right is a scroll down list of all of pCINE's calculations.  Choose one by tapping on it.

• There are three ways to enter data:

  • Enter by numeric pad input (if selected in "Preferences").

  • Manually by tapping the current entry, entering another number and tapping OK.  

  • Tap on the diamond next to the entry giving you a pop-up list of the most common choices.

• EXPOSURE

  • If not already selected, select "Exposure" by tapping on the upper left scroll-down menu.

  • Make sure you have set your preferred Exposure defaults in "Preferences" (see Preferences section above).

  • Aperture:

    • There is a default setting for aperture that can be changed in "Preferences" and "Exposure" (see Preferences section above).

    • On the upper left is the aperture window.  Tap on the smaller upper right box within this aperture window to highlight and activate aperture.  Now, when you change any of the elements in the other windows the f-stop will display the correct recalculated stop.  

      • EXAMPLE:  Highlight the aperture box, then change camera speed from 24fps to 6fps.  It recalculates the aperture by stopping down 2-stops from 2.8 to 5.6

      • NOTE:  When the aperture is recalculated a small magnifying glass appears above it.  If you tap on this the aperture will show you the stop in fractions.  Example, instead of f 4.5 it shows you 4 +1/3 as well.

    • You can NOT change the f-stop when its small box is highlighted.  To change the f-stop you must highlight the Footcandle/Lux box, then change the f-stop and reactivate it.

      • NOTE: To temporarily change the f-stop without changing any of the other elements (except light unit's Footcandle or Lux), tap on the padlock icon (lower right) to unlock the elements.  Change the f-stop, then relock by tapping the padlock icon again to close it.

      • NOTE: To permanently change the default aperture, tap on your menu button, tap on "Preferences," tap on "Exposure" button and change your f-stop accordingly.

    • When it's not activated you change the f-stop by tapping on the oval f-stop box.  A pop-up list of f-stops will appear and you tap on one to select it.  

      • NOTE:  Bear in mind, however, unless the pad lock is unlocked, changing the f-stop will change whatever other window is highlighted at the time!

  • Light Unit (Footcandles or Lux):

    • There is a default setting for Light Unit that can be changed in "Preferences" and "Exposure" (see Preferences section above).

    • The top right window is the light unit box for either footcandles or Lux.  

    • If aperture's box is highlighted, changing the Footcandles/Lux entry will show you the corrected stop in the aperture window.

    • You can also activate Footcandles or LUX  by highlighting its upper right box.  Now, if you were to change any of the elements in other windows the Footcandles\Lux will show you the correct recalculated light level.  Example:  highlight Footcandles\Lux, then change camera speed from 24fps to 48fps.  It recalculates the Footcandles\Lux by doubling it from 100.3 to 200.7 Footcandles and leaves the other elements (like aperture) the same.

    • If you prefer not to use light unit, you can hide its window from the screen by tapping the tiny diamond underneath the sun icon at the top right of the screen.

  • Filter factor:

    • There are two ways to add a filter:

      1. Tap on filter factor number and enter the filter factor manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

      2. Tap on the diamond next to it to display 8 choices in a pop-up window.  To choose one, highlight it by tapping its box to the left.  You can choose one or all 8.

    • In addition, you can choose which filters to include in this pop-up window of 8 filters.  After opening to the first 8 filters, tap on the diamond next to either of them to open a second pop-up window of additional filters to select from -- up to 16 preset filters plus 7 custom filters.

    • You can create up to 7 custom filters by tapping on the diamond in filter factor, selecting any of the filters shown (not the check boxes), then scroll down to "edit custom filters."  Tap on a filter to name it, then tap on light loss to enter stop loss in decimals.  (It will change to fractions once you click OK).

      • HINT: pCINE shows a preset polarizer as having a 2-stop light loss.  If you prefer 1 1/2 or 1 2/3 stop loss, then create another polarizer in custom filter with the light loss your prefer.

    • If you prefer not to use it, you can hide the filter factors and ND filters windows from the screen by tapping the tiny diamond underneath the filter icon in the middle of the screen.

  • ND Filters:

    • There are two ways to add an ND filter:

      1. Tap on the ND filter number and enter the ND filter manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

      2. Tap on the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common ND filters.

         • HINT: the common ND filters we customarily refer to as whole numbers are really decimals.  For example, an ND 3 is really an ND 0.3

    • If you prefer not to use it, you can hide the ND filters and filter factors windows from the screen by tapping the tiny diamond underneath the filter icon in the middle of the screen.

  • Camera speed:

    • There is a default setting for camera speed that can be changed in "Preferences" and "Exposure" (see Preferences section above).

    • There are two other ways to change the camera speed:

      1. Tap the fps number to change manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

      2. Tap on the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common frame rates.

    • If aperture's box is highlighted, changing the camera speed will show you the corrected stop in the aperture window.

    • You can also activate camera speed by highlighting its upper right box.  Now, if you were to change any of the elements in other windows the camera speed will show you the correct recalculated camera speed.  Example, highlight camera speed, then change shutter angle from 180 degrees to 90.  It recalculates the camera speed by halving it from 24fps to 12fps and leaves the other elements (like aperture) the same.  Of course this is not the best calculation to choose.

  • Shutter angle:

    • There is a default setting for shutter angle that can be changed in "Preferences" and "Exposure" (see Preferences section above).

    • There are two ways to change the shutter angle:

      1. Tap the shutter angle number to change manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

      2. Tap on the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common shutter angles.

    • If aperture's box is highlighted, changing the shutter angle will show you the corrected stop in the aperture window.

    • You can also activate shutter angle by highlighting its upper right box.  Now, if you were to change any of the elements in other windows the shutter angle will show you the correct recalculated angle.  Example, highlight shutter angle, then change camera speed from 24fps to 12fps.  It recalculates the shutter angle by closing it from 180 degrees to 90 degrees and leaves the other elements (like aperture) the same.

  • Film Speed:

    • There is a default setting for film speed that can be changed in "Preferences" and "Exposure," (see Preferences section above).

    • There are two ways to change film speed:

      1. Tap the film speed number to manually enter a film speed (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

      2. Tap on the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common film emulsion ratings.

    • If aperture's box is highlighted, changing the film speed will show you the corrected stop in the aperture window.

    • You can also activate film speed by highlighting its upper right box.  Now, if you were to change any of the elements in other windows the film speed window will show you the correct film speed.  Example, highlight film speed, then add an ND 0.3.  It recalculates the film speed by going from EI 100 to EI 200 and leaves the other elements (like aperture) the same.

    •  

  • Exposure time

    • Displayed at the bottom of the screen in fraction plus decimal.  Shows the length of time of each exposed frame of film.

  • Memory:

    • Tap on MC to clear memory and go back to default.

    • Tap on MS to save a calculation.

    • Tap on MR to recall a calculation that you previously saved.

      • HINT:  If you ever get confused as to what is activated or entered you can tap the MC (memory clear) button to return to your default which should be your neutral setting (no filters plus normal frame rate and shutter angle. 
        

• RUNNING TIME/FILM LENGTH

  • If not already selected, select "Running time/length" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • Select the film format by tapping on the number or on the diamond next to it for a pop-up list of formats.

  • At the bottom of the screen is displayed the number of frames per foot for the film format chosen.

  • Select the camera speed:

  • There are two ways to change the camera speed:

    1. Tap the fps number to change manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

    2. Tap the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common frame rates.

  • The "total" box is total frames.

  • The "length" box is film length.  There are 2 areas you can change -- the first digits are footage and the second digits are frames.

  • The "time" box is the running time of the film.  There are 4 areas you can change.  The first digits are hours, then minutes, then seconds and finally frames.  

  • The "total," "length" and "time" boxes are all linked.  A change to one will give the result in the other two boxes.

  • In addition, you can calculate backwards and choose which element, "time" or "length," you want recalculated.  Example:  You have chosen 24fps in 16mm format.  You entered 400ft in "length" which calculated running "time" as 11:06 and 16 frames.  If you want to keep this calculation, but want to see how a different fps or format would change "length" or "time" you can choose which one you want recalculated by activating it.  To activate either "length" or "time" for this reverse calculation tap on the diamond on the lower left corner of one of their windows to highlight it.  Whichever one you have activated will change when you enter a new "format" or "fps."  

    • NOTE:  For obvious reasons you can't activate both "time" and "length" at the same time.

  • There is a "clear" button to zero the length and time to start over.  

    • NOTE: The "clear" button does not reset the camera speed or film format, these must be done manually for obvious reasons.

  • Be sure to set to either meters or feet/inches in "Preferences" (see Preferences section above).

  • You can also change the projector speed to either 24, 25, 29.97 or 30fps.
    

• SHOOTING TIME/SCREEN TIME

  • If not already selected, select "Shooting/screen time" by tapping on the upper left scroll-down menu.

  • Select the camera speed.  There are two ways to do this:

    1. Tap the fps number to change manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

    2. Tap on the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common frame rates.

  • Highlight whichever element you want to calculate by tapping on the small box inside one of the windows on the upper-right.  Your choices are "camera speed," "shooting time" or "screen time."  A change to one will give a result in the other two boxes.  

    1. EXAMPLE: Tap on the "clear button" to zero out.  Activate "screen time" by tapping on the small, upper-right box to highlight it.  If you now enter 3 minutes in "shooting time" the "screen time" will show a result of 3 minutes at 24fps.  If you then change the fps from 24 to 60 fps, the "screen time" will recalculate to 7 minutes and 30 seconds.  You tells you that if you run the camera at 60fps for 3 minutes the time the film will be projected on screen will be 7 minutes and 30 seconds.

    2. EXAMPLE: Tap on the "clear button" and then set fps to 72fps.  Activate "shooting time" by tapping on its upper-right box.  Now enter 3 minutes in the screen time window.  The result will be 1 minute in "shooting time" telling you that you need to run the camera 1 minute at 72fps to get 3 minutes of "screen time."

    3. EXAMPLE: Tap on the "clear" button to zero out.  Activate "camera speed" by tapping on its upper-right box.  Now enter 2 minutes in the shooting time window and 1 minute in the screen time window.  The result will be 12fps in the camera speed window telling you if you run at 12fps for 2 minutes you will get 1 minute of screen time.

  • The shooting time and screen time have 4 elements to change in their clocks.  The first digits are hours, then minutes, then seconds and finally fractions of seconds.  

  • There is a "clear" button to zero the screen.

    • NOTE:  The "clear" button does not reset the "camera speed" fps back to 24fps, this must be done manually if desired.  This is a feature, not a bug.

  • You can also change the projector speed to any fps.  Tap on the fps entry and then enter manually or tap on the diamond to the right of the entry to choose from the most common projector speeds.
    

• TIME LAPSE

  • If not already selected, select "Time lapse" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • Highlight whichever element you want to calculate by tapping on the small box inside one of the windows on the upper-right.  Your choices are "shooting interval," "event duration" or "screen time."  A change to one will give a result in the other two boxes.  

  • "Event duration (shooting time)" clock has 5 elements to change in its clock.  The first is days, then hours, then minutes, then seconds and finally fractions of seconds.

  • "Screen time" clock has 4 elements to change in its clock.  The first is hours, then minutes, then seconds and finally fractions of seconds.

  • "Shooting interval" clock has 5 elements to change in its clock.  The first is days, then hours, then minutes, then seconds and finally fractions of seconds.

  • Underneath "Shooting interval" is "Exposure time."  Use it for any frame rate under 1fps.  It can be in fractions such as 1/30 or 1/60 of a second.  It can also be longer exposures such as 1, 2, 3... seconds.  

    • NOTE:  Whatever is entered in "Exposure time" is invisibly added to the interval entry.  So, if you entered interval as a frame every 2 seconds and entered "exposure time" as 3 seconds (shutter stays open for 3 seconds), the entire interval would be actually be 5 seconds (2+3).  It doesn't show as 5 seconds, but the program calculates it.

  • The most common use of time lapse will be determining the shooting interval for a particular "event duration" and "screen time." 

    • EXAMPLE:  Activate "shooting interval" by tapping its small upper-right box.  Enter 2 hours, 30 minutes in "Event duration."  Next enter 10 seconds in "screen time."  The result is 37.50 seconds interval telling you for 10 seconds of screen time you must shoot one frame of film every 37.50 seconds for 2 hours and 30 minutes.

  • You can also change the projector speed to any fps.  Tap on the fps entry and then enter manually or tap on the diamond to the right of the entry to choose from the most common projector speeds.

    • NOTE:  The shooting interval is always associated with the "projector speed" so even if you reset it will show the interval of whatever frame rate is chosen in "projector speed."  For example, shooting time of zero and screen time of zero and projector speed of 24fps will show .04 seconds in interval.  Yes, even 24fps has an interval even if it's not considered time lapse.
      

• HMI SAFE SPEEDS/SHUTTER ANGLES

  • If not already selected, select "HMI safe speed/shutter" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • Change between 50hz (Europe and elsewhere) or 60hz (United States and elsewhere) in "Preferences" and "Exposure" (see Preferences section above).

  • Tap on the oval box, "safe speed list," in the upper left to show a complete table of safe speeds at any shutter angle.  This should be enough for most users.

    • NOTE: Changing between 50hz and 60hz in "Preferences" and "HMI safe speed/shutter" changes the list of safe camera speeds and also the pop-up list of safe shutter angles.

  • In ADDITION to these safe speeds you can also find various shutter angles that are safe at odd speeds not found on the "safe speed list."

    • Highlight "shutter angle" by tapping on the small upper-right box inside the "shutter angle" window.

    • You can now enter a new fps in one of two ways:

      1. Tap the fps number to change manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

      2. Tap on the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common camera speed rates.

    • Entering an odd frame rate will calculate which shutter angles are safe to shoot at with that frame rate, even though it is not on the "safe speed list."

      • EXAMPLE:  entering 7 fps tells you that it is HMI safe if your shutter is set at 21 degrees, 42 degrees, 63 degrees, 84 degrees, 105 degrees, 126 degrees, 147 degrees, 168 degrees, 189 degrees or 210 degrees.  You just choose which one you prefer.

      • NOTE:  The symbols (^) that you see in front of the given shutter angles represent the number of light peaks for every AC power cycle.  ^ is 1 light peak, ^^ is 2 light peaks, ^^^ is 3 light peaks, etc.  In other words, in the example above there would be 1 light peak exposed to the film with the shutter set at 21 degrees.  It would increase to 2 light peaks exposed to the film if the shutter was opened to 42 degrees (the shutter would be open for twice as long allowing for the additional light peak).  The trick is keeping the light peaks exactly the same PLUS even for each exposure (keeping all peaks with no valleys).  For instance, 1/2, 1 1/4, or 2 1/2 light peaks would most likely result in a flickered image because there are "valleys" in addition to the "peaks".

      • NOTE:  Whenever you enter a fps number that is on the "safe speed list" it will display "any angle" in the shutter angle window.  This means just what it says, but also tells you that it is a frame rate that appears on the "safe speed table."

  • You can also select a shutter angle and calculate which frame rates are safe with it.  Activate the camera speed window by tapping on its upper-right box highlighting it.  Now if you enter a shutter rate in the shutter angle window it will calculate what frame rate is safe with that angle.

    1. EXAMPLE: Highlight camera speed by tapping on its upper right box, then enter a 40 degree shutter manually in the shutter angle window.  The result is 13.333 for 1 peak, 6.666fps for 2 peaks, 4.444 for 3 peaks, 3.333fps for 4 peaks, etc.  You just choose which one you prefer.

    2. NOTE: The safe speeds in the "safe speed list" do not show up (even if you were to enter a 180 degree shutter) because this formula is based on peaks of light only.  Plus, to add the safe speed list to every eligible shutter angle entered would make the fps list too long.

  • ** As always, these safe frame rates and shutter angles are theoretical and to be absolutely safe you should shoot film tests to verify results.  This is also true for those "safe" frame rate cards that have been published and circulated.**

• DIOPTER

  • If not already selected, select "Diopter" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • Set default diopter power and either feet/inches or meters in "Preferences"  (see Preferences section above).

  • Diopter is used mainly to calculate the near and far focus distances of selected diopter powers.

  • Distance entries can be manual or numeric pad input (if selected in "Preferences").  Feet and inches entered manually must be written with a space, comma or dash between them.  Examples: 0 6 (6"), 1,2 (1'2"), 3-4 (3'4"), 6 7 (6'7"), etc.

  • Lens Limit.

    • Enter the lens' close focus on its barrel.  Example:  A lens with minimum focus of 2'6" would be 2'6".

    • Can be entered manually or by numeric pad input (if selected in "Preferences").

    • The lens limit entered here will determine the near focus of the selected diopter power.  For example:  If the lens limit was 2'6", then the closest focus possible with a +1diopter would be 1'6".  If the lens limit was 5' 0" the closest focus possible with the same diopter would be 2'8"

  • Lens Focus.

    • Where the focus distance is set on the barrel of the lens (not the actual distance, but a calculated distance as determined by the object's distance and diopter power).

    • Input is entered in feet and inches.  You can enter manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences.")

    • To activate "lens focus," highlight the small upper right box in its window.

    • This window is mostly used to show where the lens would be focused when the subject is at a particular distance from camera and thus you let the object distance entry automatically calculate this.

      • EXAMPLE: Your lens limit is set to 2ft., your diopter power to 1/2 (.5) and the object distance is 3 feet away (measured from the diopter not the film plane).  If lens focus was activated (box highlighted) then its result would be 5'10" telling you the barrel focus position.  If you changed the object distance from 3' to 4'6", then the lens focus would change to 14' 8".  This gives you an idea of where to set the lens barrel each time. 

  • Diopter power.

    • Entered in decimals.  You can enter manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").  Examples:  .5 for +1/2, 1 for +1, 1.5 for +1 1/2, etc.

    • Lens length is entered as inches only.  You can enter manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences.")

  • Object distance or total distance.

    • Traditionally with diopter calculations, the distance to object is measured from the diopter and not from the film plane.  pCINE, however, allows you to make the choice where you would like to measure -- from the film plane ("total distance") or diopter ("object distance").  

    • To set to calculate from the film plane ("total distance") you must do two things:

      1. Enter the physical length of your lens (from the film plane to the front element) in the window below the lens icon (the arrows show you what distance is being represented).  

      2. You must change "object distance" to "total distance" by tapping on the box directly under "near."  This just adds the physical length of the lens (from the film plane to the front element) to the distance from diopter to object.

    • You can toggle between "object distance" and "total distance" by tapping on its box.

    • The arrows will always indicate what distance is being represented.

  • Lens length.

    • To calculate "total distance" you must enter the physical length of the lens from the film plane to the front element.  (See above for explanation).

    • Lens length is located in the window below the lens icon, lower right of screen.

  • Focus limit.

    • Shows you the focus parameters, near and far focus, of a particular diopter power and lens limit.  This is the most useful feature of diopter, figuring what your focus range is with a particular diopter and a lens' minimum, barrel focus and infinity.

  • Memory.

    • Tap on MC to clear memory and go back to default.

    • Tap on MS to save a calculation.

    • Tap on MR to recall a calculation that you previously saved.

      • HINT:  If you ever get confused as to what is activated or entered you can tap the MC (memory clear) button to return to your default which should be your neutral setting (whatever you have as your default in "Preferences"). 

  • Various calculation examples.

    • To calculate which diopter to use for a particular "object distance" (or "total distance" if selected). 

      • Tap MC to clear memory.

      • Enter the lens limit (minimum focus).

      • Activate the "diopter" window by tapping on its small box in the upper right corner.

      • Choose "object distance" or "total distance" (see above for details).

      • Enter the distance to your object next to "object distance" or "total distance," then tap OK.

      • The result will appear in the diopter window.

    • To calculate what the distance parameters (near and far focus) are for a particular diopter power.

      • Tap MC to clear memory.

      • Enter the lens limit (minimum focus).

      • Activate the "object distance" or "total distance" window by tapping on its small box in the upper right corner.

      • Choose "object distance" or "total distance" (see above for details).

      • Enter a new diopter power, then tap OK.

      • The result will appear in the "near" and "far" "focus limit" windows.

    • To calculate what the lens barrel focus is for a particular "object distance" or "total distance."

      • Tap MC to clear memory.

      • Enter the lens limit (minimum focus).

      • Activate the "lens focus" window by tapping on its small box in the upper right corner.

      • Enter your "object distance or "total distance."

      •  The result will appear in the "lens focus" window.
        

• MACRO

  • If not already selected, select "Macro" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • All entries are in inches only (no need to enter feet, then inches) or meters.  To enter inches manually just write 5 for 5" or .569 for .569", etc.

  • Image size.

    • There are two ways to change the image size:

      1. Tap the number to change manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences"). 

      2. Tap the diamond next to it to select from a pop-up list of common formats.

    • This gives you the entire width of the frame of whichever format or size you have chosen.

  • Fill.

    • Sets what percentage of the frame you want the object to "fill."

    • Fill size can only be entered by tapping on its diamond and choosing a common percentage.

      • NOTE:  You will not see the actual image size entry change when you select a fill-percentage.  It changes it internally and gives you different results in the other windows.

  • Lens FL (focal length).

    • Enter the lens focal length you are using by tapping on the number and changing.

  • CoC (Circle of confusion).

    • Enter your circle of confusion in either of two ways:

      1. Tapping the number and changing it manually (or numeric pad input if you selected it in "Preferences.")

      2. Tapping the diamond next to it and selecting from a pop-up list of common CoC.

    • Entries are for microns.  Typically 16mm is 15.24 microns and 35mm/70mm is 25.4 microns, but you can enter slightly above or below depending on your needs.  

      • NOTE:  If you are in manual input (not numeric pad) you will get the inch equivalent above your micron entry.  This is not the case if you have numeric pad input enabled in "Preferences."  This is not a bug and for obvious reasons we could not incorporate it into the calculator-style screen.

  • Object size.

    • Enter the size of your object's width by tapping the number and changing.

    • Enter in decimals.  Example: .5 for 1/2", 1 for 1", 2 for 2", etc.

  • Aperture.

    • Enter your exposure (what your light meter reads).

    • A corrected stop will then be calculated and displayed in the "corrected stop" window (see "corrected stop" below).

  • Corrected stop.

    • Shows you the corrected stop to use after entering all of your shot particulars, mainly your aperture (see "aperture" above).

      • NOTE:  When the aperture is recalculated a small magnifying glass appears above it.  If you tap on this the "corrected stop" will show you the stop in fractions.  Example, instead of f 4.5 it shows you 4 +1/3 as well.

    • This is a result window only and can only be changed by reentering one of your shot particulars.

  • Object distance.

    • Shows you what your object distance is after entering all of your particulars.

    • This is a result window only and can only be changed by reentering one of the other entries.

  • Extension length.

    • Shows you the extension of the lens required after entering your shot particulars.

    • This is a result window only and can only be changed by reentering one of the other entries. 

  • Magnification result.

    • Its calculation is displayed at the bottom of the screen on the left.

    • This is a result only and can only be changed by reentering one of the other entries.

  • Depth of field.

    • Its calculation is displayed at the bottom of the screen on the right.

    • This is a result only and can only be changed by reentering one of the other entries.
      

• COLOR CORRECTION

  • If not already selected, select "Color Correction" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • Shows you what filters are required to "correct" light sources for either tungsten or daylight film stocks.

  • Film type.

    • Select your film type.

    • There are two ways to choose a film type.

      1. Tap either 3200 K (tungsten) or 5500K (daylight) on the sliding scale on the left side of the screen.

      2. Change to either "tungsten" or "daylight" by tapping the box with the diamond below the sliding scale on the left side of the screen.

  • Light source.

    • Select your light source. 

    • There are three ways to choose a light source.

      1. Tap the correct Kelvin temperature on the sliding scale on the right of the screen.

      2. Tap on the number in the lower right and enter manually (or numeric pad input if selected in "Preferences").

      3. Tap on the diamond to the left of the number for a pop-up list of common Kelvin temperatures and descriptions.

         • NOTE:  If you select a Kelvin temperature on the light source bar for which no common description exists, then no description appears in the window.  This is not a bug.

  • Filter.

    • The filter bar shows you whether you need a filter towards the yellow or bluish or none at all.

    • The actual filter result is displayed in the window below this filter bar.

    • Beside the filter calculation is the mired value result.

    • Above the filter calculation window is the stop correction for the chosen filters.
      

• SCENE ILLUMINATION

  • If not already selected, select "Scene illumination" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • If the Candelas (Peak Beam Intensity) of a lamp is known at a certain distance, then the illumination at other distances can be calculated.

  • Set to either footcandles, LUX or EV units in preferences.

  • There are two ways to enter information

    • Tap on the entry and enter manually.

    • Tap on the entry and enter with the numeric pad (if numeric pad is selected in preferences).

  • Example:

    • Measure your lamp at a certain distance, say 5 ft, and note the footcandles (LUX or EV) on your light meter.  

    • Activate the Peak Beam Intensity box (by tapping its small box in the upper right corner).  Enter 5 ft. in the distance box and your footcandle (LUX or EV) reading in its box.  

    • To determine your light levels for this particular lamp at various distances, activate the footcandle (LUX or EV) box and change the distance.  The new footcandle (LUX or EV) calculation will appear in its box.

    • You can also highlight the distance box, and change the footcandles (LUX or EV) entry.  It will tell you how far to move the lamp for this light level.
      

• LIGHT COVERAGE

  • If not already selected, select "Light Coverage" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • Used to determine the light spread of lamps in angles, distance and beam width.

  • Example:

    • A lamp's beam width is 9ft. across on a plain white surface at a distance of 12ft.  What is its angle?

    • Highlight "beam angle" by tapping its small box in the upper right corner.

    • Enter 9 ft. in "beam width" and 12ft in "distance."  The result is shown in "beam angle," 41 degrees.

  • Example:

    • You know the beam angle of a lamp (example above).  What distance must the lamp be to cover a width of 7ft?

    • Highlight "distance" by tapping its small box in the upper right corner.

    • Enter the known "beam angle," in this case 41 degrees.

    • Enter the beam width of 7ft.

    • The result will appear in the distance box, 9ft 4in.

  • Example:

    • You know the beam angle, from the first calculation, say this time it's 36 degrees.  Say the furthest away you can get the lamp is 11ft, what will the beam width be?

    • Highlight "beam width" by tapping its small box in the upper right corner.

    • Enter the known beam angle, in this case 36 degrees.

    • Enter the distance of the lamp, 11ft.

    • The result will appear in "beam width," 7ft 2in.
      

• Underwater calculation

  • If not already selected, select "Underwater distance" by tapping on the upper left scroll down menu.

  • Used to determine the change in underwater focus distance with flat-glass ports.  The calculated distance is 3/4 the actual measured distance.

    • Example: You measure 12 feet distance between your underwater camera and your underwater subject.  pCINE calculates it as 9 feet.  You should set your lens barrel to 9 feet and not 12 feet.

    • NOTE:  Some underwater cameras have corrected dome ports which correct the magnification phenomenon.  In this case there may be little or no change in distance.  If unsure, check with your manufacturer!
      

• MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS TO RUN pCINE:
  • PocketC v3.91 or later (shareware).  Included with this version of pCINE.
  • MathLib.prc to do the math.  Included with pCINE.
  • pCINE.prc.  The program file.
  • Hotsync to install the above 3 files.
  • Palm device with PalmOS v2.0.5 or later.

NOTE:  DO NOT RUN pCINE ON VERSIONS OF POCKETC EARLIER THAN v3.91!   The latest version will always be available at www.davideubank.com

HISTORY:

• February 6, 2001 - pCINE v 1.0 - the first release.
  • Changed icons in Scene illumination.
  • Added Time Exposure to Time Lapse.
  • Added Underwater Distance calculation.
• November 5, 2000 - pCINE v 1.05b
  • Final beta-program.
  • Added Scene illumination.
  • Added Light coverage.
  • Change preferences to allow for the above additions.
• October 15, 2000 - pCINE v 1.01b
  • Fixed minor nuisance bug in numeric pad.
  • Changed text in Exposure preferences.
• October 5, 2000 - pCINE v 1.0b
  • Added TIME LAPSE.
  • Changed Preferences layout.
  • Changed EXPOSURE screen layout.
  • Added various projector speeds to Running time/length and Shooting/screen time.
  • Moved "safe speed list" button in HMI.
  • Added "VistaVision-35mm/8-perf" to RUNNING TIME/LENGTH "Film format."
  • Added "VistaVision-35mm/8-perf" to MACRO "Image size."
• August 21, 2000 - pCINE v 0.9b
  • Public beta-test program began.
• July 13, 2000 - pCINE v 0.77b
  • Private beta-test program began.

BUGS:

• This is the first release of pCINE.  As with all new products there may be bugs, errors or omissions.  Please report any problems a.s.a.p. to David or Dian (e-mail addresses below).  

SHAREWARE AND REGISTRATION INFO:

• pCINE  
  • pCINE is a Shareware program, $15 US.  If you like it and find it useful, please register it at:
    http://www2.viaweb.com/pilotgearsw/pcine.html
    
  • When you register, don't forget to give your Palm device Hotsync name.  After registering, we will send you a registration code that can only be used on your Palm device with your given Hotsync name.
  • Without registration you can still use pCINE (there are no missing features), it will only remind you to register each time you launch pCINE.
  • After registering, do not delete the database, PWDart3, in PocketC as this contains your registration number.  As a matter of fact there is no need to open PocketC at all.
  • If you need further information or feature requests please drop David or Dian an e-mail. Other detailed information is also available on David Eubank's web site (see below).
    
• David Eubank:   pcine@davideubank.com
• Homepage:        www.davideubank.com
  
• Dian Suharto Iskandar:   arto88@dnet.net.id
• Homepage:                     http://www.geocities.com/artosoft

We would like to thank the following beta-testers for their assistance:

• Andrew Young of Panavision Hollywood.
• Mako Koiwai, a Camera Assistant in Los Angeles.
• Steven Poster ASC, a Director of Photography in Los Angeles.

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